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striping basic points - 4/9/2008 10:57:58 AM

Spray_Rookie

Posts: 135
Joined: 3/26/2007
From: Phoenix, AZ
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I've discovered that it's probably a good idea to at least give striping a try. At the very least, it'll make it easier to cover so choppy lines in my flames. I've got some excellent books and just watched the wizard DVD but I have some basic points that I need clarification on, please. Oiling your brushes?I know why (to keep the hairs fresh and pliable) but you DO rinse them before you use them again right? Wiz said everything from Linseed oil to Transmission fluid was OK to store them in but do you bathe them in paint thinner before use or what is that process? Is anything better then anything else? One Shot vs HOKOne shot doesn't get cleared (but can if you add hardner), you can use it over existing clear without scuffing (but dewax/grease 1st), can be used for everything from flame outlines to full on designs.HOK enamels are more like HOK paint, need to be cleared, and need to have a physical/chemical bond just like the other paints. Correct? Those are my 2 biggies for now. Thanks Rookie

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RE: striping basic points - 4/9/2008 11:06:29 AM

Immortal Concepts

Posts: 1006
Joined: 3/7/2006
From: TX live in KY
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yes you need to rinse out the oil before you stripe again, i use power steering fluid for oiling and mineral spirits for cleaning and reducing, i use 1 shot personally and yes you have to add hardner only if you are going to clear over it. when you clear over it do a couple light coats first before you go heavier on it so you don't risk harming the striping. so full process on oiling is clean the brush out fully with mineral spirits, be sure to pull from the hilt to the tip squeezing to get out all the paint and spirits you can, just don't tug or you'll loose your bristles. don't soak the crap out of em with the oil just enough so it wont dry out. when you getting ready to stripe again, pull the oil out squeezing it and then rinse with spirits till its not oily anymore.

< Message edited by Immortal Concepts -- 4/9/2008 11:16:08 AM >

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RE: striping basic points - 4/9/2008 11:06:51 AM

DalesArt

Posts: 9656
Joined: 11/6/2004
From: Iowa/Heaven
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Try reading this: http://www.airbrush.com/forums/tm.aspx?m=45428&mpage=1

And below is part of a PM that I answered a few days ago:

Subject:

RE: One shot

Thanks for the (multiple) compliments!

1-Shot is best applied over the top of clearcoat for the very reason you noted. (possible wrinkling or lifting)

It CAN be applied underneath, but you MUST take these precautionary steps. Even then, it's not a risk free procedure. A test panel goes a looooong way in helping you!

Use a little of the same clearcoat (as your final finish will be) in your 1-Shot. Instead of thinner, I dip my brush in the clearcoat and then palette out my colors with that.
The more dry or cured your 1-shot is, the better "luck" you will have. Using a light bulb or drying heat will greatly reduce your risks. (Actually, it is the clear in step #1 that hastens the drying/hardening of that paint.)
Apply the clearcoat very dry on the first few passes. After about three DRY coats, and sufficient flash time, then you can apply a wetter coat. Then finish with an even, wet coat.

IF at any time you see ANY wrinkling ... STOP IMMEDIATELY and let the clear harden. You can then lightly sand the area and apply more clear.

Of course, striping with urethane prevents the problem completely (though I personally like the way 1-Shot flows much better).

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RE: striping basic points - 4/9/2008 12:30:30 PM

airbrushstef

Posts: 2432
Joined: 8/21/2005
From: Antwerp Belgium
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10 W 40 motor oil thats what I use to store my brushes ,I was doing this many years with my regular house paint brushes and fine bristle lacker brushes before I start doing it with my pinstripe brushes. I rinse the brushes out with just regular paint thinner (mineral thinner) or cellulose thinner what ever comes in hand first,just like you would clean the paint out ,same technique. with striping brushes I tend to use a clear glas bowl or jar so I can see of the thinner stays clean or if there is still oil coming out the brushes. I do the same when I clean the paint out. To oil them I use the lid of a big jar so I can soak and load the oil into the brush a bit the same technique like you would use to load the paint into the brush. I rinse the brush between tumb and index finger to take to much oil out and store them upright so the oil flows down into the brush towards the handle, I use an old bullet tray for that.

I never used one shot with hardner under clear,even a few told me it can be done, I just don't like to take the risk of paint reactions. so everything under clear I use HOK striping paint and everything above or on top of clear I use one shot.
Like you said yourself ,make sure you degrease the paint verywell before you aply the oneshot on top of any surface.

greetz Stef

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RE: striping basic points - 4/9/2008 1:00:18 PM

Spray_Rookie

Posts: 135
Joined: 3/26/2007
From: Phoenix, AZ
Status: offline

Thanks for all the info. So do I HAVE to use 1-shot or can I just stripe with "normal" HOK (assuming that's my paint of choice)? Obviously for some designs 1-shot would be perfect but as a general rule where I have not yet cleared a flame job, would I stripe then clear to maintain a zero edge or should I clear and then stripe above the clear. For example, if I wanted to go back in and stripe the dragons here, would/could I use 1 shot or would it be better to sand it down and use HOK then re-clear?

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RE: striping basic points - 4/10/2008 1:50:50 AM

christ351

Posts: 324
Joined: 10/16/2007
From: Australia, Downunder
Status: offline

I was just reading a magazine article about an expert old skool striper and he stores his P/S brushes in Vaseline.Didnt say what solvent he uses to remove the Vaseline tho

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